Finding the right shade of foundation

We’ve discussed identifying your skintone, so now you know if you’re “warm” or “cool”. Now what do we do with that info!? Good question. Once you know your skintone, you can more easily find the right foundation and pick colors for your makeup (and clothes, for that matter). Won’t that be nice!?

One of the most common complaints I hear from women is that they don’t know how to select the right foundation, or they think they have skin that just can’t be matched. Not true! I’ve only met a few people who were really, really hard to match – and some of them were delusional about what looked “right” on them. (Some people really don’t see themselves right in the mirror, or prefer to look darker or lighter than they really are.)

So, assuming you’re ready to find the right shade, and also assuming you want to actually match your skin, this lesson should help!

Note: The following steps are meant to help you pick the right foundation shade, but do not address the steps necessary to pick the right formula*.

*”formula”, in this case, refers to the right level of coverage (sheer, medium, full) for your skin type (oily, dry, combination, aging, etc…).

To find your perfect foundation color:

1. Decide whether you have warm or cool undertones.
2. Go to a makeup counter and take a look at the tester bottles. You should have bare skin when you do this. If you can’t bear to go bare on your way to the mall, ask someone at the counter for makeup remover.
3. Try to judge the depth of foundation color as compared to your skin color (just pick a few that look as if they’ll work). If you know you’re really fair, pick the lightest ones. If you’re mid-toned just grab a few that seem to be aproximately your shade.
4. Give the testers a little roll between your palms, to mix the pigments thoroughly.
5. Open the bottles and look at the inside of the tops to see the foundation. If you have cool undertones, you’re looking for a slight pink tint to the foundation; if you have warm undertones, you want shades with a slight yellow tint.
6. Select the likely suspects and put the other ones away, so you don’t get confused!
7. Using a sanitary method, dip into three or four of the likely suspects and paint a stripe of each shade on your cheek near your jawline. You want a fairly wide swipe – don’t be shy! Try a finger’s width wide. I prefer to use a long cotton-tipped swab for this, which can be found at most cosmetics counters. Tip 1: Use a new swab for each bottle, so you’re not transferring bacteria/germs/ookies. And don’t double dip! Tip 2: Make sure the stripes are painted onto clean skin, not on top of your current makeup. You aren’t trying to match your makeup, you’re trying to match your skin. Tip 3: Paint the stripes where you’re going to be able to see them in a mirror!
8. The ideal shade for you disappears on the skin. Discount any samples that are considerably darker or lighter than your skin.
9. Once you have narrowed the selection down to one or two that seem to match, ask to borrow a hand mirror to take outside to look at the stripes. Give the swatches a good look in as many light sources as you can! You want to have to squint to see the correct foundation stripe! If you can barely see it, it matches your skin.
10. If you can’t find a match, ask for some more remover and try again! Some cosmetic lines aren’t going to have your match, so you may have to leave your beloved X-line and go to the competitors. I love Chanel foundations, but can’t wear them because most of their shades are yellow-based (warm) and I’m cool. *shrug* I have found other options that are better because they match. I still have my Chanel lipsticks!
11. Once you think you’ve found a match, ask for a sample so you can try it at home with your normal routine. Make sure it doesn’t change colors on the skin or look funny in different lights. When you’re sure, you can buy a big bottle. (It’s nice to get the business card of whomever helped you, and give him/her the credit when you come back to purchase the bottle)

Things to remember:

• Do not try to go lighter or darker than your skin color. Don’t fake a tan (I’ll show you how to bronze in another lesson). No matter what you think when you look in the mirror, if you aren’t matching your skin color with your foundation your foundation does not look natural. People will not be fooled.
• Don’t guess what shade you’ll be in the Fall. Don’t think you can remember what your “winter skin color” is. The only way to guarantee success is to match your skin as it is today. If you need your summer makeup, match it to your summer skin!
• FACE atelier has two great products for people who are either between shades or need a little flexibility in their foundation. Zero Minus is a slightly shimmery white additive for foundation that will lighten it up a bit. Zero Plus is dark pigment and can be mixed with a too-fair foundation to give it a bit more color. Go slow with both products  – it’s easy to go overboard! And I advise mixing foundation and these additives in a palette or on the back of the hand, as needed, rather than trying to remix a whole bottle of the stuff!
• If you have rosacea or another issue that gives your skin a bit of a red or ruddy tone on the surface, this doesn’t necessarily mean you have “warm” tones to your skin. Try to match your foundation to a non-reddened bit of skin. Once you find a match, when the foundation is applied over the reddened skin you’ll be able to blend away much of the redness. On a side note, if your rosacea makes your skin surface “slippery” (you have trouble getting foundation to adhere), try patting it on with a brush or sponge, rather than using a sweeping motion. Always use a primer first to help the makeup stick and stay.
• In the same way, you can always mix small amounts of two other shades to get the right combination for you. This is particulary helpful in the Spring or Fall for those of you who are stuck somewhere between your Winter shade and your tan!

My recommendations:

• I like Chanel foundations, as I mentioned. Great for those with a bit of jingle in the wallet, assuming they have warm complexion.
• My personal go-to foundations are Armani, which require even more jingle.
• I also really like Stila – nice and easy to pick up via Sephora. The Illuminating Foundation is gorgeous!
• I really like mineral foundations, too. Try my favorites: Everyday Minerals and Lumiere Cosmetics.

You may have noticed I don’t mention those incredibly popluar meccas for cosmetics fans: MAC and Bare Minerals/Bare Escentuals. While I love MAC and respect Bare Minerals, I don’t recommend them for everyone.

• MAC foundations were originally designed for makeup artists. What does that mean? Originally they were meant to be applied for fashion shows and photo shoots and then removed. I think they haven’t broken that habit completely, because MAC foundations tend to smother almost all skins. Result: breakouts and/or severely clogged pores.
  • The exception to this rule is Mineralize Skinfinish Naturals, which I love with an undying passion. They’re amazing as a foundation and can be applied dry, swirl-tap-and-buff-wise, or with a damp foundation brush for a bit more opaque coverage. These are tucked away in the powder section of the MAC site, but trust me: they’re a great foundation for a lot of people. I once made over an African American girl with really bad acne scarring, and used an MSF Natural. She was radiant, and you’d never guess she was even wearing makeup much less covering flaws! Her sister literally almost walked right past her because she didn’t recognizer her (in a good way).
  • Some people just can’t find a good match anywhere but MAC. Or they’re such diehard fans, they don’t want to heed my warnings about how they may wreck your skin. If you’re one of these people, please make sure you’re using good skincare: cleanse thoroughly every night, exfoliate twice a week, and try to have a few makeup-free days a week!
• Bare Minerals. Sigh. The commericals sure are convincing, aren’t they? And they’ve brought new attention to a not-so new product: mineral makeup. Why am I not on the bandwagon? Let me count the ways:
  • I hate the tagline “So pure you can sleep in it”. Don’t sleep in your makeup. It’s not pure enough, no matter what you wear. Anything that sits on your face is not natural and isn’t good for your skin in the long run.
  • I resent kits. They’re nice for folks who like all-in-one packaging, but you end up spending more for products you’re not sure how to use or don’t need.
  • Bare Minerals foundations (and some other mineral makeups, to be fair) contain an ingredient called Bismuth Oxychloride. Bismuth is a salt that can irritate some skins (mine included) and cause redness and/or itching and/ore dry patches and/or cystic acne. Most people aren’t bothered by bismuth, but if you experience any of these symptoms, try another makeup without that particular ingredient.
  • The end opinion is this: there’s nothing wrong with Bare Minerals for many (most?) people, if you wash it off at night, but just remember: nothing is right for everyone.

Look for lessons on how to pick the right makeup colors for you. Also coming: how to apply concealer and foundation.

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